IV-18 VFD vacuum Russian Clock (part 2)

In the previous article, I have study the way to power this large VFD, now we gonna take a look closer at the logic itself. We need to drive a lot of bits (8+9) at ~40v. After a little googling, I discover that Allegro still sell some VFD drivers, but they are really hard to buy, and only provide a small amout of outputs (in DIP package).

Ok .. so I decided to use a Maxim VFD driver: the MAX6921:

  • 20 outputs
  • 4 wire serial-interface
  • supply voltage: 8v / 76v
  • 40mA output

The main issue is that it only exist in a SO package, so I need to use a little adapter to use MAX6921 on a veroboard .. (I bought this at my local store, but they cost twice the price of the MAX)

The next step, is the clock itself. For my nixie clock, I tested several stuff like 50hz (mainlines) sync, or external oscillator but this isn’t accurate enought. This time, I decided to use a plain old DS32kHz crystal oscillator. I’m pretty sure this won’t loose a second in a week ;)

To finish the clock, I need a micro-controller, as I need a really little amout of IO (2 for buttons, 4 for the VFD driver, and 1 for the oscillator), I decided a ATtiny2313 could do the job perfectly and give me the enought room for other stuff (like a LDR for automatic dimming)

So, here the final schematic:

http://jkx.larsen-b.com/photos/VFDProjects/iv_18_u.sized.png

The full schematic

It’s the first time I used the ATtiny2313, but AVR-GCC is a great tools so.. To program this little stuff, I used the in-circuit programming, check out tuxgraphics doc for more infos about the whole stuff.

That’s fine, but does it look great ? ;)

Hum, yeah ! ;)

Here the (quite) finished product

http://jkx.larsen-b.com/photos/VFDProjects/dsc02406.sized.jpg

And if you look closer at the VFD:

http://jkx.larsen-b.com/photos/VFDProjects/DSC02324.sized.jpg
And the finished product :

Download

You will find a complete archive file here, it contains:

  • All the sources need to program the ATtiny
  • All the schematics to build you own ;)

/Enjoy

Related posts :

admin October 9th, 2006


27 Responses to “IV-18 VFD vacuum Russian Clock (part 2)”

  1. uishtiekon 11 Oct 2006 at 1:11 am

    DAMN! i wish i could make something cool like that, thats totally sweet. a glow in the dark way-cooler-than-LED clock

  2. EcoKeeson 11 Oct 2006 at 10:40 am

    very nice!
    well done!
    can you post a photograph of the print with the SMD-chip? I am interested in the way that you connected that chip to the rest of the board.
    tnx
    Kees

  3. EcoKeeson 11 Oct 2006 at 10:58 am

    The SMD-chip use a adapter. This adapter is solder to the veroboard. I used some "wrapping wire" to connect the adapater to the vacuum and 4 wires between the mainboard and this one. I will try to make de picture soon. (Check out the video, you will see part of that part).

    Bye

  4. Graffyon 11 Oct 2006 at 6:53 pm

    Looks great! The tgz file just expands to one file. I can kinda see it in word, but not very well. Any hints? (I have ordered some tubes through shady ebay guys, we’ll see if I get them)

  5. Jkxon 11 Oct 2006 at 7:55 pm

    Graffy: The tgz file a Unix file. You can unzip it, with the original winzip. You will get a .tar that winzip should can open too. (If you have cygwin installed try: a "tar xvfz iv-clock.tgz". If yu really have trouble with that, send me a mail, I will drop you a .zip

    I used Gschem for the schematic…

    And to finish, if enought people are interested I can will produce some PCB.

  6. Graffyon 11 Oct 2006 at 8:48 pm

    Hey! Thanks for being so fast… a zip would be great… Us mechanical engineers shy away from this "unix" you speak of.

  7. uishtiekon 11 Oct 2006 at 11:41 pm

    anyone wanna make me one? :-P

  8. Jacubilloon 12 Oct 2006 at 8:27 am

    If anyone want’s one of this, please get in contact with me. I just bought 12 tubes of this type and (obviously…) don’t need them all. I don’t want to make a profit out of this. Just cut the costs and avoid having to store 10 tubes.

    Juan Cubillo

  9. anton19286on 27 Oct 2006 at 7:29 am

    as i remember better to use AC for heater to provide uniform brightness

  10. Jkxon 12 Nov 2006 at 11:28 pm

    Yes AC for heater is better, but this won’t work on MAX6921 (no neg input) ..

    Another stuff, the song on the video is from Lonah (not Anabase)

  11. Jordanon 29 Nov 2006 at 5:32 pm

    Hi,
    Thanks for your attention !

    The descompacted archieve "iv18-clock" opens at Word-XP , but it is very confuse ( the schematic is mixed with the microcontroller code and all text is full of unicode and asc caracters )

    Have you the microcontroller´s program in a separated text ?
    Sorry for my english ! i´m from Brazil
    Thanks
    Jordan

  12. Jkxon 29 Nov 2006 at 11:00 pm

    Jordan please open the file with Winzip, as it’s archive compressed file..

    Bye

  13. Emiel Roumenon 20 Dec 2006 at 9:53 am

    Super! I’m interested in the PCB, what would one piece cost?

  14. lemonyxon 15 Jan 2007 at 2:47 pm

    Jkx

    I’m still confused. The entire schematic/circuit consists of the power supply circuit and the uC controller section (max921,attiny2313 and the ds32khz)? Anything else (besides the tube)?

    What was the reason not using a wallwart? Do you have a copy of the spec for the IV-18 tube and could I get a copy of it?

    I’m not an EE, but with such a low component count it would not be too diffcult to build one of these, just programming the attinywould be my hurdle.

    Thank you for sharing your design/

    Charles

  15. stefon 16 Sep 2007 at 10:58 pm

    I have the same problem with the TAR.
    I would appreciate a .zip too if possible.

    Any news on the pcb design ? If it ever gets designed im interested in some.

    Thanks for sharing

    Stef

  16. spook79on 27 Oct 2007 at 1:50 am

    I’ve just built up a version of this clock and it looks great and works very well.

    However, I made a few mods to suit the components I had on hand:

    – It uses a 9V DC plug pack.

    – Because of this, it uses a switchmode boost converter to generate ~40V for the VFD anodes.

    – I used a MAX787 for the 5V power supply, because that’s what I had on hand.

    – I’ve used an ordinary watch crystal, trimming capacitor and a CD4060 in place of the DS32KHZ. When the DS32KHZ I have on order arrives, I’ll change back to your design since it will be more accurate.

    I’ve used your software, which works really well. I only had to change the segment (font) and digit arrays to suit my wiring of the IV-18 tube.

    However, I did notice what I think is an error on the schematic diagram. Namely, that the clock output from the DS32KHZ should go to pin 8 (PD4/T0) on the ATTiny2313, not pin 6 (PD2/INT0) as it is drawn above.

    Before making this change the clock advanced the seconds very slowly and sporadically. Now it works perfectly. However, this change might only have been required because I am using a different clock generator, as noted above.

    Thanks for taking the time to post up this design. It’s a really neat project.

    Luc

  17. Jkxon 03 Dec 2007 at 12:58 am

    Good news Spook79 :)

    I changed the clock a couple of times, so perhaps there is a bug in. I need to post more photos on this clock too.

  18. brivaporon 08 Dec 2007 at 6:12 am

    Hello
    Ive just started building this cool clock and Im new to the AVR chip programming
    Is the only file I need to program the Attiny2313 main.hex?
    All other files were just for your testing and not necesary for me?

    thanx for anyy input

  19. Anonymouson 23 Dec 2007 at 11:19 pm

    is there any way to see that the clock circuit works, without the iv-18

    Ive got the IV all lit up, but no pulse

    how to test the attiny2313
    I want to be like Dr Frankenstein
    "ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

    is there an output from the attiny that I could visibly check an on off on off motion

  20. Jkxon 27 Dec 2007 at 2:06 am

    brivapor, please be a little more precise. Feel free to contact me over IRC or MSN to talk.

    Bye

  21. IV-18 madnesson 13 Feb 2008 at 10:18 pm

    Hi Jkx
    Ive started building your clock and notice in the schematics that on the Attiny, pin 10 is usually grounded and pin 20 is usually Vcc, is your schematics correct in this regard or should I add pin 10 and 20

    also is that a (not)Vcc in the pin 1 reset?

  22. Rimmerakon 20 Feb 2009 at 2:19 pm

    Hello jkx. I have bought itron IV-18. I want to make a clock like you have. But I´m not electromechanic. I thought, that I make PCB and plug the parts, but I found that I must programate Attiny 2313. It is unbeatable problem for me. I realy don´t know nothing about this dilemma.

    Can you tell me some advices?

    PS: I can´t open “iv18-clock.gsch” . What is it in this file? PCB image? I have eagle software and it can´t open this file.

    Thanks for answer. My mail is rimmerak@gmail.com
    Sorry for my english, Im from czechrepublic.

  23. adminon 25 Feb 2009 at 10:52 pm

    Hi Rimmerak,

    To program the Tiny2313 you can use a simple parallel wringler.
    Please check out this : http://www.scienceprog.com/simplest-128-atmega-programmer/

    For the .gsch file, this is a Geda software file : http://www.gpleda.org/

    Hope this helps.

  24. Filipon 12 Apr 2009 at 6:02 pm

    Why the schemmatic does not match to the code? Wrong input of 32kHz, wrong WFD wirings. Wery angrying and more hours spending project of nothing. Do not recomending this!

  25. fuleson 02 Aug 2009 at 6:38 pm

    Download
    You will find a complete archive file[[[[ here]]]]], it contains:

    All the sources need to program the ATtiny
    All the schematics to build you own ;)

    download file here is not file

    update please..

  26. adminon 11 Aug 2009 at 2:00 am

    fules: This is a file, believe me ! … read other comments you will understand ..

  27. Supernovaon 28 Aug 2009 at 7:15 pm

    Does somebody has de code in something other then a .gsch file .
    Because i’m currently working with windows and gpleda does’nt work on this .

    Please if someone could help me

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